Tomatoes

I use tomatoes a lot in my cooking and have successfully grown enough to use now and for preserving. Read on for my technique. Hopefully it helps.

Growing Cordon tomatoes

A simple guide

Growing Cordon Tomatoes on Your Allotment: A Simple Guide

Cordon tomatoes, also known as indeterminate tomatoes, are a favorite among allotment growers due to their tall, vine-like growth and the abundance of delicious fruits they produce for eating fresh or for cooking. Unlike bush tomatoes, which grow in a compact shape, cordon tomatoes need to be trained and supported as they grow. Here’s how to grow cordon tomatoes successfully on your allotment.

Choosing the Right Variety

First, select a variety of cordon tomato that suits your taste and growing conditions. Popular varieties include ‘Gardener’s Delight’ for cherry tomatoes, ‘Ailsa Craig’ for a classic, medium-sized tomato, and ‘Moneymaker’ for a reliable, heavy cropper. My go to favourite is Big Mama, an awesome Italian very large plum shape shown in the photo above. Each of these varieties thrives in a cordon system, producing plenty of fruit throughout the summer. Big mama do get heavy though, so make sure your cane or method for trailing up is strong.

Sowing Seeds

Start by sowing your tomato seeds indoors, about 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost. Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good-quality seed compost. Sow the seeds about ¼ inch deep, cover lightly with compost, and water gently. Place the trays in a warm spot or on a heated propagator to encourage germination, which usually takes about a week.

Once the seedlings have two sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into individual pots to grow on until they’re ready to be planted outside. Keep potting on whilst inside as the root ball fills the pot, and each time you pot on, plant deep, covering at least the removed lower set of leaves. Always plant deep !! Get the hint ?

Preparing Your Allotment

Cordon tomatoes need plenty of sunlight, so choose a spot on your allotment that gets at least 6-8 hours of sun each day. Prepare the soil by digging in plenty of organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure. This will improve soil fertility and help retain moisture.

If you’re growing tomatoes outdoors, wait until all danger of frost has passed before planting them out. Tomatoes are frost-sensitive and won’t thrive in cold conditions. My tomatoes do best inside a polytunnel. If you don’t have one, try to get a cheap or even better free greenhouse from the free pages.

Planting Out

When your tomato plants are about 6-8 inches tall and the weather is warm enough, it’s time to plant them out. Space the plants about 18 inches apart, with about 3 feet between rows if you’re planting more than one row. This spacing allows for good air circulation, reducing the risk of disease. Airflow around them is key… although I am guilty of cramming in, you do risk the dreaded blight !!

At planting time, drive a sturdy stake or cane into the ground next to each plant. Cordon tomatoes can grow tall—up to 6 feet or more—so they’ll need support as they climb.

Training and Pruning

As cordon tomatoes grow, they need to be trained up their support stakes. Gently tie the main stem to the stake using soft twine or plant ties, being careful not to damage the stem.

Pruning is essential for cordon tomatoes. As the plant grows, side shoots (also known as suckers) will develop in the leaf joints. These should be pinched out regularly to ensure the plant’s energy goes into producing fruit rather than excess foliage. Pinch them out with your fingers when they are small, ideally no longer than 2 inches. I’ve been known to plant these for some cheeky freebies !

Allow only one main stem to grow, and remove any other shoots that develop. This training method ensures that the plant remains focused on producing fruit along its single stem. You can let it branch out, and you will get tomatoes, but not as big as the energy is spread thinly.

Watering and Feeding

Tomatoes need consistent watering, especially once they start flowering and setting fruit. Water deeply and regularly, aiming to keep the soil evenly moist. Avoid watering the leaves, as wet foliage can lead to fungal diseases.

Feeding is crucial for good fruit production. Once your tomatoes start to flower, feed them weekly with a high-potash fertilizer, like tomato feed. This encourages more flowers and, ultimately, more fruit. Get yourself a pattern of watering and feeding that works for you. My routine is water every night, with a capful of feed into a 5 litre watering can every other water (evening) . Find the routine and stick to it !!

Harvesting

Tomatoes ripen from mid-summer onward, depending on the variety and weather. Pick the fruits when they’re fully colored and slightly soft to the touch. Regular harvesting encourages the plant to produce more fruit.

Common Problems

Keep an eye out for common tomato issues like blight, which can devastate your crop. Good air circulation, proper spacing, and keeping the foliage dry can help prevent this. Also, watch for signs of blossom end rot, often caused by irregular watering or calcium deficiency. Remove at once any diseased leaves, and dispose of!! This year, I had the beginnings of blight, but I swiftly removed early signs at all opportunities and fought it off.

So in summary…

Growing cordon tomatoes on your allotment is a rewarding experience, offering a bountiful harvest of fresh, flavorful tomatoes throughout the summer. With the right care—staking, pruning, watering, and feeding—you’ll be able to enjoy homegrown tomatoes that far surpass anything you’ll find in the store. Happy growing!